Fashion has built in signals conveying the message being given by an individual or group’s dress code. This message may include gender expression, marital status, income, occupation and social class, ethnic and religious affiliation etc. Clothes also convey other social messages including claiming cultural identity or political affiliation.
Political activism has long existed since the beginning of time and along with it, political attire. From ancient Rome to Egypt, from the French Revolution through to the Russian Revolution, from World War 1 through to World War 2, from the Cold War through to the Civil Rights movements, fashion has played a significant role in reflecting the attitude and political stance of a particular group.
The beatnik poets and writers of the post-World War II period railed against conformity and are usually remembered for their black clothing and jackets.
Another group that made a significant impact in art, culture, fashion and politics of the era was the Black Panthers. Not only did they influence the rise of anti-capitalist and anti-war movements, they also called for social awareness and gender equality – among other things. The culture of the 70s was intimately tied to the radical social movements of the time. There was an incredible amount of student backlash against the disastrous Vietnam War, which brought with it a rise in anti-capitalist sentiments and increased sympathy for causes like the Civil Rights movement and women’s rights movements.
As a black liberation and black power movement, the Panthers espoused, among other things, an ideology that embraced and celebrated non-Eurocentric standards of beauty. “Black is beautiful” became a rallying cry as the Panthers actively resisted the Eurocentric versions of beauty standards and encouraged their supporters to wear the signature black leather jackets, love their skin and keep their hair in natural styles. Their revolutionary vibrations of their powerful rhetoric were felt well into the 90s and beyond.
